"There are things you can see in Iceland you can't see anywhere else."
Cameron Hewitt, a co-author of Rick Steves's latest guidebook on Iceland, illustrates his point beautifully in this hour-long program about my favorite foreign country.
Hewitt offers tips on visiting what he dubs a cinematic, "very remote, very rugged" geothermal landscape, which began as a sprinkling of Viking farms in the 800's, remained both literary and rural into the 19th century, and finally gained independence from Denmark in 1943. The Maine-sized country, at about the same latitude as Fairbanks, AK, gained tourism stardom in 2010, with eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano.
Iceland's humble beginnings -- Hewitt said it's been seen as a Scandinavian backwater -- belie its spectacular natural beauty. It boasts a sapphire-blue stole of encircling ocean, perhaps the cleanest and freshest air on planet Earth, star-filled skies that hold the promise of the Northern Lights, and weather than can only be described as unique.
I discovered Iceland long before it became a tourist mecca, back in the 1970's, when my study-abroad class from Penn State stopped there en route to France. Though all I saw on my initial visit was the airport gift shop, something inside of me connected with the place and never quite let go. Since 2013, I have returned to Iceland every winter, with each trip besting the one before. There are many things that I love, and I was curious whether Hewitt would capture them, or show me something new.
In a couple of ways, he did. Hewitt mentioned a culinary favorite of mine, Iceland's delicious lamb, with its "certain flavor to the meat people say is special." Iceland's finer restaurants can be costly, so Hewitt suggests making lunch the main meal of the day, an excellent suggestion. And the fish on Icelandic tables redefines fresh. In terms of the climate, "Icelanders consider good weather 'not windy,'" Hewitt says -- another point well-taken. However, the notoriously unpredictable gusts of Iceland are something I enjoy. I literally was blown down the main street of Siglofjordur during my trip this past January, and was relieved not to have been whooshed into traffic outside of Reykjavik's Saga Museum. I enjoy the power of nature and savored these wild experiences.
Iceland is really two different places -- one in winter and the other in the more temperate months. Hewitt clearly favors the latter, due to the extra daylight hours of the Midnight Sun and the lack of icy roads. I disagree! Sure, I'm always taking a risk that I might not get lucky with the Lights during my trip. However, the anticipation of scanning the sky each night is a great deal of the fun. In addition, I am a huge fan of Iceland's community thermal pools. There is nothing quite like bathing outdoors in womb-like waters while it is snowy and blustery overhead.
"If you go in winter, you're going to probably have to stick to Reykjavik," Hewitt says. Another point that I'd dispute! In the city, there is nature to be enjoyed in views of the crystalline North Atlantic at the foot of many Reykjavik streets. And one can't beat the aforementioned wind and varieties of snow that fall and swirl through the air. Prepare to get to know graupel!
Hewitt doesn't mention the benefits of taxis and domestic flights. As a person who dares not drive in the arctic, I regularly fly to such interesting northern outposts as Akureyri and Isafjordur. It is amazing to behold the snow-draped canyons of Asbyrgi from a prop plane. And I'd never discount the possibilities of Straeto, the nationwide system of buses that travel year-round. Early this year, I took ax exciting Straeto journey from Akureyri to Siglo. At times there was zero visibility due to blowing snow. The rest of the time, views of the mountains and roadside fjord were extraordinary! (I'm still a fan of Icelandic gift shops, and highly recommend the one at Hof, near the Akureyri departure point.)
I was happy to learn about a couple of Hewitt's favorite haunts in the capital, and will be sure to drop by Reykjavik Roasters for dark-roast coffee and Braud & Co. for breakfast treats the next time I'm on Laugavegur for the pre-dawn swim that christens each of my trips.
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