Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent is part-biography, part revenge and, as one semi-literate critic for a men's clothing magazine put it, 'so fun.' Well, let's say absorbing and enjoyable. Tower grew up luxe under hands-off parents who took him on glamorous travels but usually left him to his own devices, like luggage tagged 'not wanted on the voyage.' And so young Jeremiah began developing a personal esthetic derived from the ocean liners and grand hotels he eagerly explored—their kitchens especially. He perhaps more than Alice Waters put her Chez Panisse on the map and she returned the favor by copying his menus and recipes in her cookbook while giving him no credit at all and only a perfunctory word of thanks. Tower moved on to Stars, his stunning max-luxe celebrity restaurant in San Francisco, then, post-recession, vanished for 15 years until he made the terrible mistake of signing on as Tavern on the Green's second top chef in five months. Bankrupt in 2009, the New York landmark, its gaudiest trap for tourists and suburban wedding planners, had reopened in 2014 under two guys from Philadelphia (!!!). Their expertise came from a crepe restaurant and a lounge noted mostly for its dance floor. (Tower, who split after six months, says they asked him whether lamb had both white and dark meat. As the Philly wonder twins would be on their fourth chef by 2016, I can imagine them ordering sushi medium-rare.) Plenty of top foodies appear in support of Tower: Ruth Reichl, Mario Batali, Wolfgang Puck, Martha Stewart and co-producer Anthony Bourdain proclaim him and unrecognized culinary giant, and he himself is a compelling presence. In all a documentary that's good to look at, fascinating in its insider view, and both beguiling and melancholy.
