10/10
10/10
19 October 2018
I was lucky enough to see this film early at the World Premier in NYC. I am a surfer and followed surfing from an early age but up until this film I have never seen a film go into such intimate detail to effectively tell a story about surfing and give an inside look at one of the best surfers in the world and the struggle that he went through behind the scenes. His brother, Bruce Irons, and his wife, Lyndie, do not hold back at all in describing the details of not only Andy's life, but also the life of a professional surfer. This is more than a surf film. It transcends surfing and is a story that everyone should see, as we have all know or have known someone who has dealt with mental illness and addiction.
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