If Japan is renowned for its rituals and refinement, one of its arts has seen its reputation tainted by scandal and has gradually sunk into oblivion: horimono tattooing. For a long time, these ink drawings were reputed to provide wearers with magical protection. They eased the fears of fishermen heading out to sea, gave heart to firefighters battling flames and strength to workers perched on the highest scaffolding. Outlawed in the mid-19th century, the horimono was then taken over by the yakuza mafia gangs, becoming a symbol of terror. Today, a handful of enthusiasts have set about restoring this tradition to its former glory. Masters of this art, born in the 17th century, open the doors of their workshops.